Vancouver Neighbourhood Stories

The city is a kaleidoscopic amalgamation of distinct neighbourhoods, each with its own defined residential and shopping areas and each with its own story to tell. Here's an introduction to the most intriguing handful of our 23 neighbourhoods. For an historic perspective, the Architectural Institute of British Columbia (www.aibc.ca) offers inexpensive summer walking tours of various neighbourhoods.

Downtown
Centered on Robson Street, Vancouver's downtown core is teeming with boutique-loving shoppers intent on scooping up the latest designer fashions. The street is also a de facto promenade: on summer evenings it's full of strolling visitors ambling among the stores and checking out the colourful street performers working along the main drag. Reflecting Vancouver's increasing cosmopolitanism, Robson is also home to dozens of authentic ethnic restaurants, especially at its western end, where Korean and Japanese language students pack the busy noodle shops and sushi bars. Consider a story on this area's burgeoning young Asian culture.

West End
Stretching from Coal Harbour to English Bay, with Stanley Park on one side and Burrard Street on the other, the West End's tree-lined boulevards, diverse restaurants and streets of boutique shops serve a population of young people and seniors in a largely adult-focussed area of the city. This is also where Western Canada's largest gay and lesbian population lives, explaining why the hugely entertaining annual gay pride parade winds through the area's streets every August.

The main thoroughfares are Denman Street, dominated by mid-priced restaurants and independent stores; Davie Street, with its busy shops, Bohemian coffee bars and gay-friendly nightlife venues; and Robson Street, with its Starbucks outlets, boutique chain stores and trendy designer shops. For a blast from the area's past, check out Barclay Heritage Square, nine historic homes surrounded by period landscaping. Consider a story covering the West End by bike or on rollerblades - there are several rental outlets in the area.

Gastown
The city's most historic area and officially a National Historic Site of Canada – Gastown is the neighbourhood where Vancouver began. Named after John Deighton, a talkative Yorkshire-born saloon owner who was nicknamed "Gassy Jack." Deighton showed up with a barrel of whisky on the south shore of Burrard Inlet and told the area's mill workers they could drink as much as they wanted if they helped him build his saloon. The men built Gassy's saloon in 24 hours. Now an area of cobbled streets, character restaurants, local designer boutiques, colourful bars and a famous steam clock, Gastown is Vancouver's picturesque old town area - find out more on a free summer-only walking tour (www.gastown.org/programs). Consider a bar crawl story covering the area's best old-school pubs and see how many locals you can chat to along the way.

Yaletown
An old redbrick warehouse district transformed in the early 1990s into swanky condo towers, lounge bars and chichi boutiques, pedestrian-friendly Yaletown is Vancouver's "little Soho." Roughly bounded by Nelson, Homer, Drake and Pacific Streets, the modern-day downtown enclave has a hip and inviting atmosphere - especially at night, when its bars can be packed to the rafters with the city's beautiful people intent on checking each other out. Yaletown is home to some of the city's best restaurants - a dining tour of the area is highly recommended - and the Opus Hotel (www.opushotel.com), the city's contemporary, celebrity-friendly boutique sleepover. Consider a story on Yaletown's history. Visit the Roundhouse Community Centre which was the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway (you can view Engine 374 sitting in her final resting place here) then enjoy a latte on the "loading dock"-style patios (old loading docks act as giant sidewalks and create a unique setting for many outdoor patios in the neighbourhood).

False Creek & Granville Island
The waterfront area lining False Creek reflects Vancouver's modern-day development in microcosm, transforming a largely industrial area of wasteland into a huge swathe of attractive urban developments featuring parks, live-aboard marinas and glass-sheathed apartment buildings. The area's most prominent success story is Granville Island (www.granvilleisland.com), a 15-hectare (37-acre) mini-district of boutique stores, artisan workshops, theatres and restaurants - as well as the famed Public Market, complete with its pyramids of produce and a hopping food fair. Consider a story on Granville Island for foodies, exploring the market for a range of succulent local produce and interviewing local chefs on how best to prepare your goodies.

Commercial Drive
Culinary adventurers should also consider trekking along eclectic Commercial Drive, where decades of European immigrants - especially Italians, Greeks and Portuguese - have created a United Nations of restaurants, coffee bars and exotic delis. This is the best spot in town to watch international soccer games among the city's most passionate fans, and it's also a promenade of espresso-sipping patio dwellers on languid summer afternoons. Vancouver is well-known for the ubiquity of its Starbucks outlets, but consider a story on the coffee houses of Commercial Drive, where successive generations of immigrant baristas brew-up what many regard as the best java in town.

South Main
One of the city's down-at-heel neighbourhoods until recent years, the revitalized "SoMa" area is Vancouver's newest hipster hotspot. Despite its still-grungy appearance, it's lined with Bohemian coffee bars, veggie-friendly eateries, one-of-a-kind boutiques and bold artist-run galleries frequented by the art-student-turned-film-producer set. Consider a story on SoMa's unique local designer fashion stores for visitors.

Punjabi Market
Also known as "Little India," this colourful area around Main Street and 49th Avenue is a bustling enclave of sari stores, Bhangra music shops and some of the region's best-value curry restaurants. It also hosts several annual cultural events and is an ideal spot for an afternoon of gently browsing. Consider a culinary story on the area's Indian and Pakistani restaurants, interviewing chefs about their favourite dishes.

Kitsilano
Transient students and singles come and go, but a strong core of long-time residents still anchors "Kits," one of the city's most desirable older neighbourhoods. Overlooking the classic Vancouver skyline of sea, Stanley Park and the North Shore mountains, this area was once the counter-culture capital of the region and is now home to many of those hippies who grew up to enter middle-management - it's a comfortable, liberal paradise of well-heeled vegetarians and yoga-moms. Home to Kitsilano Beach, Vanier Park, Vancouver's largest outdoor pool and a 4th Avenue thoroughfare of browsable independent stores, Kits is one of the city's best summertime hangouts. Consider a story on Vancouver's laziest day for visitors, covering the beaches, coffee houses and laid-back locals of Kitsilano.

Richmond
The Lower Mainland's vibrant new-Asian enclave, Richmond is packed with malls, restaurants and stores specifically aimed at its youthful Chinese, Japanese and Korean population. But it's not all about manga bookstores and Hello Kitty here; additional attractions include the community of Steveston, an old fishing village that couldn't be more visitor-friendly. Once home to thousands of fish industry workers and 50 canneries - you can visit the excellent Gulf of Georgia Cannery museum (www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.com) for a blast from the past - the waterfront area is still a great spot for seafood. You can buy fish fresh from the back of the boats or head inside for perhaps the best fish and chips in the region. Consider joining an old sea salt on his boat for a fishing expedition from Steveston and learn all about the area's seafaring heritage.

South Granville
Also known as "The Rise," South Granville is located between Broadway and 16th Avenue and provides the area's lively, upscale shopping and dining options. It's also one of city's leading gallery districts, complete with dozens of small, individual studio spaces. For contemporary fine dining, the area's French, Asian and Italian eateries are among the best in town, while there are also plenty of hearty, homestyle cafés for those on lesser budgets. Those with shopping in mind will find plenty of options here, too: high fashion outlets and home décor emporiums reside side by side here, inviting an afternoon of al fresco browsing. Consider a story focussing on the galleries and artists of Vancouver's South Granville area.

North Shore
Comprising North Vancouver and West Vancouver and located in the shadow of the towering Coast Mountains, the North Shore is best accessed from the city via the Lions Gate Bridge or a short SeaBus trip. The main attractions include North Van's Lonsdale Quay Public Market (www.lonsdalequay.com), Capilano Suspension Bridge (www.capbridge.com), Grouse Mountain (www.grousemountain.com) and Deep Cove, a tranquil tree-lined inlet favoured by kayakers of all skill levels.

In contrast, West Vancouver is an established, village-minded community that hugs the start of the Sea-to-Sky highway to Whistler and is close to BC Ferries' Horseshoe Bay terminal. A curious mix of old cottages and multi-million dollar homes, West Van's attractions include the seawall stroll to Dundarave Pier, Lighthouse Park's verdant trails and Cypress Mountain (www.cypressmountain.com), home of the snowboarding and freestyle skiing events at the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. Consider a story profiling West Vancouver, a worthwhile but off-the-beaten path destination for most Lower Mainland visitors.

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