On the Grill

Angus An began his culinary training shortly after completing a fine arts degree at the University of British Columbia. Enrolling in New York’s prestigious French Culinary Institute (FCI), Angus was given the opportunity to work under several of the world’s culinary greats including Jacques Pépin, Alain Sailhac and André Soltner, while apprenticing at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s legendary Jo-Jo.

After graduating from the FCI, Angus moved to Montreal to work for famed chef Normand Laprise at Toqué. It was under Laprise’s careful watch that Angus learned to create dishes that boast both complexity and simplicity, now a hallmark of his culinary style. After several years at Toqué, Angus moved to London where he continued to train in Michelin-starred restaurants including The Ledbury, The Fat Duck and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons before taking a position working under chef David Thompson at Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nahm. Working with Thompson, Angus’ eyes were opened to layering and balancing intensity of flavours while respecting centuries old recipes and tradition. It was also where he met his wife and now business partner, Kate.

Kate and Angus returned to Vancouver to open their first restaurant, the West Coast contemporary focused, Gastropod. Within the first year of opening its doors, Gastropod was celebrated by critics and diners alike and received several awards for cuisine and atmosphere. However, when the economy took a turn, Angus saw an opportunity to rebuild and rebrand. And so, in May 2009 Maenam was born. Serving authentic Thai dishes, the kitchen is directed by both Angus and Thai-born, Kate, who brings a well developed palate and traditional know-how. The couple travel to Thailand on a yearly basis, walking the streets to discover new dishes and to gain new inspiration and direction for Maenam.

Three words to describe your cuisine:
Authentic Modern Thai

Your signature dish:
We pride ourselves in our research and recipe development so really, all of our dishes are worthy of a “signature dish” title.

The dish customers must try during Dine Out?
Our Northern-style grilled chicken salad. This is one of my favorite dishes from Chang Mai. To make the dish at Maenam, we use Maple Hills chicken that is marinated over night, roasted, and then grilled with coconut cream. It is delicious.

Best thing about Dine Out Vancouver?
Choices. The number of restaurants participating continues to grow, and the quality of food and restaurants the diners will get to experience is only getting better.

A restaurant you’d like to check out during Dine Out?
I don’t think I’ll get much time off during Dine Out, but if I were to, Campagnolo would be my first stop. They’re on my way home and they’re always my go-to for pizza.

What is one thing in your kitchen you could not live without?
Our mortar and pestle – it’s the most basic tool in the kitchen and one I couldn’t live without.

One ingredient you could not cook without?
Salt, or in the case of Maenam, fish sauce. Seasoning, seasoning, seasoning! Very understated, but so important.

Who is the unsung hero in your kitchen?
Our dishwasher, who shall not be named here, so no one can steal him away from us. He’s been with me almost 4 years.

Who inspired you to become a chef?
The late James Barber. I was so mesmerized by his television shows growing up.

What was your first job in the industry?
I was a Busboy/prep cook at the Maple Ridge Buffet at the tender age of 14.

If you could give just one cooking tip, what would it be?
Nice and slow. So many people think that cooking meat is about high heat. This usually results in over-searing the protein so you’re left with a dry, overcooked outside, and an undercooked inside. Find a temperature that develops caramelization and slowly cooks the inside.

A talent you possess that many are unaware of?
I’m a very talented sleeper; I can sleep anywhere, anytime, and in any position (something that makes my wife Kate very jealous). Be it a Sunday afternoon on a park bench, on a plane stuck between two loggers, in standing room only on the subway, on 24-hour long bus rides, on the floor of an airport, I can snooze on command.

Your favourite activities/hobbies, when not in the kitchen?
Playing with my son Aidan always takes my mind off of work. When I’m not doing that, I like to play golf, lots of it.

What is your all-time favourite dish?
I had dinner at Michel Bras in Laguiole, France about five years ago. The entire evening was amazing, but it was what I had for breakfast two days later that made the most lasting impression. My friend (who was the pastry assistant at Bras at that time) took me to a small mom and pop bistro that served breakfast, traditional of that region. We had a tripe dish, traditionally served to farmers, that was braised over 15 hours. It was without doubt the best thing I have ever eaten!

One dish you never care to see on the menu again?
Crab cakes.

Most over-rated dish:
Turducken.

Most under-rated vegetable:
Beets. I never liked them as a kid, but now I can’t get enough of them.

Most over used spice?
Caraway. Stop making caraway ice cream, please.

Most under used spice?
Long pepper. I’m a fan.

Last restaurant you visited?
Fisherman’s Terrace Restaurant in Richmond.

Who is your favourite local chef?
Robert Clark, the Executive Chef of C Restaurant. Robert is a man who stands-up for what he believes in and is not shy at all to tell you about it. He’s also a good customer here, and I’d like to keep it that way.

Favourite Celebrity Chef?
Morimoto. I love the old school iron chef battles. And, Morimoto and I share the same taste in knives (his are much pricier though).

Favourite bartender?
David Wolowidnyk of West. He is both knowledgeable and creative. I love the passion he has for his craft; you can see it in his drinks and in his eyes.

Favourite farmer’s market:
Right now, the Winter Market. As it gets warmer, probably the Trout Lake Market since it’s close to home.

Favourite foodie?
Nowadays everyone’s a foodie. So all of you!

One thing about you your mother does not know?
I’d have to say probably everything that happened during my time away in New York, Montreal, and London.

A “hidden gem” in the restaurant scene:
Hardly considered a hidden gem in the Chinese community, Hong Kong B.B.Q. Master Restaurant in Richmond.

A person you most admire?
My mother.

Your biggest indulgence:
That giant Alba truffle we bought two years back.

Best place for Italian?
La Quercia or Cioppinos

Best Seafood Restaurant?
Blue Water Café + Raw Bar

Best place for a burger & fries?
Refuel

Best bar/lounge?
Uva

Best breakfast place?
Café Medina

Best late night nosh place after the bars/clubs?
I haven’t been to a bar/club for over 6 years now, but if I did, I would go to No. 9 in Richmond or the Congee Noodle House in Vancouver.

Biggest celebrity you have cooked for?
Trevor Linden. I’m a huge fan.

If you could pick anyone, who would you’d like to sit down and have a meal with?
Trevor Linden. I’m a huge fan.

Last $20 bucks, how would you spend it?
Sea urchin/ikrua don at Sea Monster sushi, I’ll have enough for a beer too. I’m a sucker for sea urchin.

 

Maenam
1938 W 4th Ave., Vancouver, BC
604-730-5579
www.maenam.ca